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Wooden Snowman 



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Wooden Snowman 



Written By: Ray Alderman 



f TOOLS: 

#1 Phillips Screwdriver (1) 
3/16" Drill Bit (1) 
Drill press (1) 
Forstner bits (1) 
a bit of string (1) 
cordless drill (1) 



© PARTS: 



2" Wooden Doll Head(1) 

2 1/4" Wooden Doll HeadM) 

2 1/2" Wooden Doll HeadM) 

pair of small wood screws (1) 

Tension spring or rubber band (1) 

pair of 3mm black faceted jewels (1) 
(optional) 

Watco Danish Oil (1) 



SUMMARY 

Last week I was reading Design Milk and saw their list of Christ mas-themed items. One of 
them was a set of wooden snowmen from FruitSuper Design that I thought were interesting, 
so now the idea of wooden snowmen was in the back of my head. 

Today I was in Michaels looking at their small wood boxes for a project enclosure. None of 
the boxes fit my needs, but they did have some large wooden doll heads that are spheres 
with a flattened side. I picked up three of different sizes and started to make a snowman. It 
took a couple of hours and backtracks and trying different things, but in the end it came out 
well. 



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Wooden Snowman 




• I got a 2", a 2.25" and a 2.5" wooden doll head. These are basically wooden spheres with a 
flattened side. 

• Most of the time you see a concave cavity when you are stacking balls like this, but you 
don't need it to be that complex. Just a hole deep enough that the bottom ball clears the 
top of the hole should work. 

• All the flattened sides were about 1.125" in diameter. I determined that I was going to use a 
1" Forstner bit and drill a hole about 3/8" deep to create the cavity the next ball could fit 
into. 

• Now it's time to get the drill press going and make wood chips. 



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Wooden Snowman 




Time to drill the top ball. Try to set the flat part of the ball as level as possible, but it does 
not have to be perfect. 

Drill out with a 3/4" Forstner bit to a depth of 3/8". That's as deep as the cavity has to go. 

Follow up with a 1" Forstner bit and drill to a depth of 1/4". I originally drilled out the entire 
thing with a 1" bit and it took forever — this is a very hard wood and my bit was not the 
sharpest. 

After doing the cavity in the top ball, drill out a little bit of the bottom ball for your anchoring 
screw to go in — just use the 3/4" bit for that. 



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Wooden Snowman 




• Here was the first problem with the project. When I drilled out the middle ball cavity with a 
width of 1" and stacked them up, it didn't work visually. The middle ball's cavity (the one 
that goes over the bottom ball) needs to be larger in diameter than the top ball's cavity. I 
then drilled it out with a IW Forstner bit. 

• That works better visually, but I would still go larger to a 1 V2" Forstner if I had one. I do 
not, so IW it is. 







In the bottom and middle balls, drill a hole from the flat all the way though. This is where 
the spring or rubber band will go to hold the snowman together. 

I used a 3/16" bit, a 1/4" would have worked as well. 

After drilling out all the way to the top on the middle and bottom balls, I put a pre-drilled 
hole for the anchoring screw in the bottom and top balls. The size of this hole will depend 
on the screws you are using to secure the spring or rubber band. 



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Wooden Snowman 







Test fit the spring and do a dry fit of the whole shebang. First, anchor the spring into the 
cavity of the top ball with one of your small screws. 

Put some string though the holes in the bottom and middle balls and tie it to the end of the 
spring. 

Pull the spring all the way to the bottom of the bottom ball. Is it long enough? Does it have 
enough springiness to it still? 

Anchor it in place on the bottom ball and see how it looks. This is a dry fit to see if it all 
works or not. If it doesn't work, try other springs or a rubber band until you can get the 
snowman to hold together. 

Once you have it all working, take it apart and put down a piece of scrap paper, because 
it's time to put on the finish and that can get messy. 



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Wooden Snowman 




} WATCO' 

DANISH OH 




• I used Watco Danish Oil for the 
stain/finish coat. This is a 
handrubbed finish that goes on 
quickly, dries fast and looks nice. 

• Follow the directions. I generally 
use a cotton rag to apply the finish. 
At 30 minutes, apply again and 
then 15 minutes after that, wipe it 
all off. It's done! 

• I decided not to apply the paste 
wax as I didn't want a huge glossy 
look. If you do, you can wax it or 
put on a coat of poly as well. Just 
follow the directions on the can. 



Step 7 







Assemble it all one more time. 

I added some 3mm black plastic "jewels" to give him some eyes and a nose. You can do 
that or just go minimalist and leave it blank. 



Hole saws might work for drilling out the cavities, but Forstner bits are better because a hole 
saw will leave a core that you must chisel out. 






This document was last generated on 201 2-1 2-21 03:33:24 PM. 



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